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Linen Glossary

In an effort to make every customer become “linen literate” we have compiled a dictionary of terminology used within the textile industry. Please read this glossary if you desire and keep it available.

  • Absorbency - The ability of a fabric to take in moisture. Absorbency is a very important property, which affects many other characteristics such as skin comfort, static build-up, shrinkage, stain removal, water repellency, and wrinkle recovery.
  • Angora - The hair of the Angora goat.
  • Baffling - A “baffled” construction has fabric walls sewn between the top and bottom of the comforter cover, which both prevents the down from shifting and allows the down to fully loft.
  • Batting - Cotton, wool, or synthetic fiber used for stuffing furniture and mattresses and for lining comforters.
  • Bedskirt - (Southern Textiles) standard 18” drop with split corners on adult patterns (Q,K,CK), available in a 21” drop and 15” drop by special request and for an extra charge. Juvenile (T,F) are made with standard 15” drop.
  • Blend - A term applied to a yarn of a fabric that is made up of more than one fiber. In blended yarns, two or more different types of staple fibers are twisted or spun together to form the yarn. An example of a typical blended yarn or fabric is polyester/cotton.
  • Cal King - (Southern Textiles) Heavyweight comforter dimensions are 106”L x 114”W that fits a mattress approximately 72” W x 84” L. Lightweight comforter dimensions are 103”W x 90”L. Imports may vary.
  • Calendering - A process for finishing fabrics in which such special effects as high luster, glazing, embossing, and moiré are produced.
  • Cellulose - A material derived from the cell walls of certain plants. Cellulose is used in the production of many vegetable fibers, as well as being the major raw material component used in the production of the manufactured fibers of acetate, rayon, and triacetate.
  • Chambray - A plain-woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns. Pronounced “sham-bray”
  • Comforter - Two pieces of fabric stitched along all four sides and filled with synthetic or natural filling.
  • Comforter Ensemble - (Southern Textiles Queen) Consisting of 1 Comforter, 1 18” Drop Bedskirt and 2 Standard Pillow Shams (King Size has 3 Standard Pillow Shams).
  • Cotton - A unicellular, natural fiber that grows in the seedpod of the cotton plant. Fibers are typically ½ inch to 2 inches long. The longest staple fibers, longer than 1 ½ inch, including the Pima and Egyptian varieties, product the highest quality cotton fabrics.
  • Damask - a patterned fabric: a reversible fabric, usually of cotton, linen, or silk, with a pattern woven into it.
  • Daybed Ensemble - (Southern Textiles) Consisting of 1 Comforter (55”L x 97”W), Pillow Shams, and 1 Bedskirt. Width measured from back to front.
  • Deluxe Pack - (Southern Textiles Queen) Consisting of 1 Comforter, 1 18” Drop Bedskirt, 2 Standard Pillow Shams and a Tri Pillow Pack.
  • Diamond Valance - (Southern Textiles) Classic diamond shape with 18” center drop; Dimensions 45” W x 18” L
  • Dobby Weave - A decorative weave, usually geometric, that is woven into the fabric structure.
  • Down - The three-dimensional clusters that are found under the feathers of geese or ducks.
  • Duvet - A duvet is similar to a comforter and/or a quilt in that a duvet is also composed of two layers of fabric with an insulation substance between. However, the difference between a duvet and a comforter and/or quilt is that the duvet is to be placed inside a duvet cover. A comforter and/or quilt can be used as independent bed covers
  • Duvet Cover - A giant pillowcase-like covering that fits over a duvet. It is open on one end, typically closed by buttons, ties, Velcro, or a zipper.
  • Egyptian Cotton - Cotton grown exclusively in Egypt and the longest fiber staple in the world. This means less linting, more durability, more luster and a softer feel.
  • Euro Pillow - (Southern Textiles) 26” Square stuffed decorative pillow
  • Feather Bed - Feather –filled sacks made to fit under or on top of the fitted sheet
  • Fiber - The basic entity, either natural or manufactured, which is twisted into yarns, and then used in the production of a fabric.
  • Fill - The material used to stuff items such as comforters or pillows. Natural down and man-made synthetics are examples of fill materials.
  • Fill Power - A measure of how many cubic inches one ounce of down will loft and expand to fill an empty space. Fill power usually ranges from 500 to 800 cubic inches, with 625 or greater considered excellent. A higher fill power means that the down will loft more, insulate better and provide greater warmth and comfort.
  • Fitted Sheet - Has pockets at each of the four corners and an elastic band around the sheet.
  • Flat Sheet - Hemmed on four sides usually with a larger hem or cuff at the top of the sheet
  • Full Size - (Southern Textiles) Comforter dimensions 92”L x 77”W to fit a mattress approximately 54 inches by 75 inches
  • Full XL Size - Comforter Dimensions are 76” W x 95” L to fit a mattress approximately 54” W X 80” L
  • Gingham - A plan woven cotton and/or synthetic fabric. Most common patterns include checks, stripes or plaids. Available in a variety of colors and pastels against a white or ecru background.
  • Jacquard Weave - A weave structure that creates a variety of patterns, such as damasks, florals and geometric. Jacquard weaves have a varying drape ability and durability depending on which fibers are used.
  • Kidney Pillow - (Southern Textiles) decorative pillow. Included in the Tri Pillow Pack
  • King Sham - (Southern Textiles) Dimensions are 20”W x 35”L.
  • King Size - (Southern Textiles) Heavyweight comforter dimensions 97”L x 113”W to fit a mattress approximately 78 inches by 80 inches-used of a bed. Lightweight comforter dimensions are 103”W x 90”L. Imports may vary.
  • Linen - A fabric made from linen fibers obtained from inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous than cotton. Linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle very easily, unless blended with manufactured fibers. Linen is one of the oldest textile fibers.
  • Loft - is measured by fill power and is the ability of down to fill an empty space.
  • Long Staple Cotton - Cotton fibers are typically ½ inch to 2 inches long. The longest staple fibers, longer than 1½ inch, including the Pima and Egyptian varieties product the highest quality cotton fabrics.
  • Mercerization - Chemical finish for cotton. This finish imparts luster to the cotton, increases its strength by nearly 25% and improves dye affinity, producing brighter shades than unmercerized cotton. It also enhances fabric hand and drape ability.
  • Merino - A type of wool that originates from purebred Merino sheep
  • Micro Modal - A natural fiber made of 100% beechwood cellulose.
  • Microfiber Fabrics - Microfiber specifically refers to any synthetic fiber that weighs less than one denier per filament. To illustrate this nearly microscopic scale, consider that a filament of this fiber more than five miles long weighs less than one gram. Such filaments are much, much finer than a human hair. Because of the size of this fiber, many can be woven closely together to create a very tight, dense fabric. This density allows for more resistance to wear and staining. Because synthetic fibers are typically not as porous as natural fibers, further resistance to damage from dirt and spills is an added characteristic.
  • Olympic Queen - (Southern Textiles) See Queen Extra Wide
  • Organic - produced without the use of chemically formulated fertilizers, growth stimulants or pesticides.
  • Panel Curtain - (Southern Textiles) Furnished with coordinating tiebacks; Dimensions 90” W x 84” L, rod pocket: 2”, header: 2 ½ inches
  • Panel Valance - (Southern Textiles) A tailored valance that can also be made into a balloon valance when stuffed; Dimensions 90” W x 14” L, rod pocket: 2”, header 2 ½” inches
  • Percale - smooth fabric: a smooth-textured closely woven cotton or polyester fabric used for bedsheets and clothing. It sometimes has a glazed finish.
  • Pima Cotton - A generic term for extra long staple cotton. (ELS) that is 1 3/8” or longer.
  • Pique - A crisp medium-weight fabric, either knit or woven, with raised dobby designs. Pronounced “pikay”.
  • Plain Weave - A weave structure that has horizontal and vertical threads woven in a simple over under pattern with no variations such as twists or knots.
  • Polyester - A manufactured fiber. It is second only to cotton in worldwide use. Polyester has high strength, excellent resiliency, and high abrasion resistance. Low absorbency allows the fiber to dry quickly.
  • Queen Extra Wide - (Southern Textiles) Comforter dimensions 103” W x 95” L to fit a mattress approximately 66 inches by 80 inches.
  • Queen Size - (Southern Textiles) Heavyweight comforter dimensions 103”W x 95”L to fit a mattress approximately 66 inches by 80 inches. Lightweight comforter dimensions are 85”W x 90”L. Imports may vary.
  • Quilt - Created by placing a layer of cotton or some other fill between two layers of fabric. Held in place by stitching or sealing in a regular, consistent, all-over pattern.
  • Rayon - A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or other vegetable matter.
  • Sateen Weave - A weave structure having single vertical threads woven over four to eight horizontal threads and under one horizontal thread. This weaving method gives the fabric a smooth finish and shows off shiny threads.
  • Satin Weave - A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. The yarns are interlaced in such a manner that there is no definite, visible pattern of interlacing and, in this manner; a smooth and somewhat shiny surface effect is achieved.
  • Scarf - (Southern Textiles) Classic, full circle hemmed fabric panel that may be mounted with scones, metal tiebacks or draped over a rod for a customized look. Available as 108” or 216” ; Dimensions 54” W x 108” L, 54” W x 216” L
  • Shams - A decorative pillow covering with envelope back. Dimensions are 18”W x 25”L.
  • Shearing - The process used to cut off surface fibers on fabrics.
  • Snuggler Set - (Southern Textiles Twin) Consisting of 1 Comforter with two fitted corners to hug the bed and a 200 thread count sheeting weight back and a coordinating standard pillow sham (Full Size will have 2 Standard pillow shams.)
  • Split King - Sheet set size with 1 Eastern King flat sheet, 2 Twin XL fitted sheets and 2 King pillowcases.
  • Super Pack - (Southern Textiles) Consisting of 1 Comforter. 1 18” Drop Bedskirt and 2 Standard Pillow Shams (King Size has 3 Standard Pillow Shams, Comforter Size will be 111” W x 95” L)
  • Super Premium Pack - (Southern Textiles Queen) Consisting of 1 Comforter (95 x 95), 1 18” Drop Bedskirt, Tri Pillow Pack, 2 Euro Pillows, 2 Standard Pillow Shams and a Sheet Set (King Size has 3 Standard Pillow Shams, 3 Euro Pillows and Comforter Size will be 111” W x 95” L)
  • Tab Top Valance - (Southern Textiles) Traditional panel valance with 2 ½” tab top style header; Dimensions 45” W x 14” L
  • Terry Cloth - A typical uncut pile weave fabric. This fabric is formed by using tow sets of warp yarns. One set of warp yarns is under very little tension; when the filling yarns are packed into place, these loose yards are pushed backward along with the filling yarns, and loops are formed.
  • Terry Velour - A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on the reverse side. Terry velour is valued for its soft, luxurious hand.
  • Thread Count - Measured by counting the number of threads per inch in the woven fabric in both directions of the weave (these directions are referred to as warp and weft). Generally, the higher the thread count, the silkier and lighter the sheets. (See end of glossary for outline)
  • Ticking - A tightly woven, very durable fabric, usually made of cotton, and used for recovering mattresses, box springs and pillows. Ticking may be of launderable fabric, and is usually removable. Down filled pillows require closely woven ticking fabric and calendered finish to prevent the fine down fibers from coming through the top or bottom layers.
  • Tri Pillow Pack - (Southern Textiles) Consisting of 3 decorative pillows.
  • Twin Size - Comforter dimensions of 92”L x 63”W to fit mattresses having the dimensions 39 inches by 75 inches. Length measured head to foot.
  • Twin XL Size - Comforter dimensions of 62” W x 95” L to fit a mattress approximately 39” W x 80” L.
  • Viscose - The most common type of rayon.
  • Warp - In woven fabric, the yarns that run lengthwise and are interwoven with the fill (weft) yarns.
  • Weft - In woven fabric, the filling yarns that run perpendicular to the warp yarns.
  • Wool - Usually associated with fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lamb. However, the term “wool” can also apply to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna.

Thread Count
300, 400, 800, 1000? Consumers are being bombarded by thread count numbers that are truly bewildering. To understand thread count, you need to understand yarn size. You will often see yarn size discussed in mens shirting. 80s two ply pinpoint oxford is a good example. To make 80s yarn requires a very high quality of staple combed cotton. Much more so than making 60s or even 40s yarn. Let’s get back to thread count. 500 thread count is the point where diminishing marginal returns set in. Why is that? To weave 600 or 800 thread count sheet would require 100s or 120s yarn. This is very difficult and the resulting sheet probably costs thousands of dollars. Manufacturers and retailers will stretch the truth by selling 600 to 800 thread count sheets by using TWO PLY YARN. All that means is that two yarns are twisted together, woven to create the illusion of a higher thread count. Federal Trade Commission guidelines (not regulation) that thread count is single yarns, not plyed yarns. So a 600 thread count sheet may in all likelihood be a true 300 thread count-as it may have been woven using two-ply 60s yarn.

A high thread count sounds good, but it means nothing if you are not getting correspondingly higher quality cotton. Even some 300 and 400 thread count sheet sets marketed today use two-ply yarn. All Southern Textiles sheet sets are made with 1 ply yarn.

 

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Never Forget
9/11/2001